top of page
Black Background
Search
Writer's pictureJacob De Hoyos

LET THEM EAT ECLAIRS

Updated: Mar 18





Marie Antoinette's historical narrative, including the misquoted 'Let them eat cake' and Dussek's emotive composition, "The Sufferings of the Queen of France," serves as inspiration for the premier blog on Baking with the Classics to create the Religieuse à l'ancienne dessert. This intricate delicacy, intertwining éclairs with caramel on a delicate pastry base, honors the queen's affinity for decadence and innovation.






The Melody



"The Suffering of the Queen of France"

The infamous phrase "Let them eat cake," or in this case, “Let them eat eclairs,” attributed to Marie Antoinette by French revolutionaries to vilify the monarch, reflects the widespread disdain towards the queen. Although never uttered by her, it became emblematic of her perceived callousness towards the plight of the people. "The Suffering of the Queen of France", written by her personal friend and piano instructor Dussek after her execution in 1793, offers a poignant portrayal of Marie Antoinette's final years. This collection of 10 character pieces delves into various aspects of her life, from imprisonment to resignation and ultimately, her execution. Dussek's innovative composition hints at the emerging Romantic era and anticipates the piano cycles of composers like Robert Schumann, showcasing his forward-thinking approach to music.



The Composer



Jan Ladislav Dussek

Classical composer Jan Ladislav Dussek (1760-1812) led a remarkable yet controversial life. His departure from St. Petersburg amidst suspicions of plotting to assassinate Empress Catherine the Great stands as a dramatic episode in his career. Later, his close ties to the aristocracy, including his role as a piano instructor and friend to the queen in France, caused a stir among the French populace, leading to his exit prior to the French Revolution, akin to many of Marie Antoinette's confidants like hair dresser Léonard-Alexis Autié and fashion designer Rose Bertin in fear of the reign of terror.


Despite living in the shadows of Mozart, Beethoven, and Schubert from the Viennese school, Dussek's contributions to pianoforte music, alongside his peers of the "London" school such as Clementi, Cramer, and John Field, remain significant though often overlooked. In London, Dussek fostered a close bond with John Broadwood, the inventor of the English action piano, shaping its evolution by expanding its range and tonal capabilities. As a virtuoso pianist, he embarked on extensive tours, performing his own compositions that greatly influenced contemporaries like Beethoven and Haydn.



The Bite




Religieuse à l'ancienne (REH-lee-shoos AH LAHN-sien), an eclair tower.

I drew inspiration from Dussek's forward-thinking compositions for my inaugural project, crafting the Religieuse à l'ancienne dessert. This delicacy, consisting of éclairs intricately joined together with caramel on a shortcrust pastry base, originated in the mid-19th century. Symbolizing the nun's habit, it pays homage to Marie Antoinette's penchant for music, desserts, and, above all, fashion.





I elevated the Religieuse à l'ancienne dessert by embellishing it with a border of Chambord mascarpone cream, piped both vertically and horizontally to enhance and complement the ruby chocolate and diplomat cream.


The Inspiration






The Palace of Versailles, France

Exploring the Palace of Versailles in France was a mesmerizing experience. Witnessing the extravagant lifestyle of the monarchy, from the grand architecture to the luxurious furnishings, such as Marie Antoinette’s personal pianoforte, left me in awe. Immersing myself in this elegance sparked the inspiration for my current project, driven by the rich history and refined allure of French royalty.







Marie Antoinette

Marie Antoinette, the last queen of France, emerged as a prominent figure in fashion and inadvertently became a symbol for the perceived excesses of the monarchy during the French Revolution. Born on November 2, 1755, to Maria Theresa, Empress of Austria, of the Habsburg dynasty, Marie was married off at the age of 14 to Louis XVI of France, as part of a strategic alliance between Austria and France. However, upon ascending to the throne, Louis XVI's queen incurred public disdain due to her extravagant lifestyle and exorbitant spending habits. Dubbed "Madame Deficit," she faced criticism for her excessive expenditure, notably exemplified by her annual allocation of 150,000 livres for an extensive wardrobe, which equates to approximately 3 million in today's currency. This profligacy starkly contrasted with the financial hardships faced by the French populace, exacerbating resentment towards the monarchy, particularly during a period marked by economic instability and widespread poverty. Following her execution by guillotine in 1793, at the behest of the Revolutionary Tribunal, history gradually began to reassess and show more sympathy towards her legacy.






The pouf

My creative journey was sparked by the iconic pouf hairstyle, masterfully crafted by Marie Antoinette's hair designer, Léonard-Alexis Autié, for her husband King Louis XVI's coronation in June 1775. This towering coiffure, reaching heights of up to 3 feet, epitomized the queen's affinity for opulence. Despite accolades, it also drew criticism, notably from her mother, who expressed concerns about its extravagant proportions. In honoring Marie Antoinette's legacy, I aim to strike that balance, offering a creation that captivates with its beauty while honoring tradition and refinement.



The components

and the recipe




Ruby chocolate

I opted for chocolate as my flavoring choice, inspired by Marie Antoinette's love for it. In fact, she even had her own personal chocolatier from Austria, holding the esteemed title of “Chocolate Maker to the Queen.” To give it a royal touch, I decided to experiment with ruby chocolate, a novelty introduced in 2017 by Callebaut, a Swiss chocolate company. Unlike traditional chocolates, ruby chocolate boasts a natural pink and purple hue, reminiscent of royalty, without any artificial dyes. Its flavor profile, subtly sweet and tangy akin to berries, prompted me to complement it with raspberry puree in the pastry cream, enhancing its delicate taste.





Diplomat cream

I also opted to use classic diplomat cream. It is a delicious mix of pastry cream (custard) and stabilized whipped cream. It’s lighter than pastry cream, and richer than whipped cream. Perfect as pastry, tart, cake fillings, as a light topping, and in this case the perfect filling cream for the eclairs!







Original Recipe

Raspberry Ruby Diplomat Cream

150 grams raspberry puree

100 grams milk

80 grams egg yolks

35 grams sugar

15 grams cornstarch

125 grams ruby chocolate

1 gelatin leaf

100 ml heavy cream


  1.  Place gelatin leaf in a bowl of water for 10 minutes to soften.

  2. Bring to boil puree, milk, and sugar.

  3.  Temper egg yolks

  4.  Put tempered mixture back on heat and cook under medium heat.

  5.  Mixture will be done when thicken.

  6. Take off heat, add the softened and well-drained gelatin, and mix well.

  7.  Place pastry cream in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let chill in refrigerator for a few hours.

  8.  When ready to use whip heavy cream to soft peaks and gently fold to soften pastry cream.

  9.  Fill pastry bag with the diplomat cream and fill eclairs.





342 views5 comments

Recent Posts

See All

5 Comments


wandi19238
Mar 19

Hi Jacob,

Such an amazing sensorial feast & read!

Striking setting, exquisite music delicate & tasteful dessert, (as I had the pleasure of tasting & as well)!

Looking forward to more of these delightful, moments!

Well, done!

Like

Sujatha Unny
Sujatha Unny
Mar 19

Jacob, looks like you’ve been hiding another talent, besides music. Lovely!!!

Like

Deirdre Harrington
Deirdre Harrington
Mar 19

Such a unique and clever way to mix music, art, culture and food - a Jacob masterpiece. Love it!!

Like

tealann
Mar 18

This was a really interesting read. And I wish you could have food tasting on the internet because it looks so wonderful! I look forward to the next blog.🤗

Like

kimberlytealcarter
Mar 17

What an incredible tribute to a larger-than-life personality! Beautiful dessert and beautiful music! Bravo!

Like
Black Background
bottom of page