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Writer's pictureJacob De Hoyos

A SWEET SYMPHONY: Haydn, Esterhazy's, and the Esterhazy Torte.

In the 18th century, Haydn's creative brilliance was nurtured by the unwavering support of the Esterhazy family, particularly Prince Nikolaus I, leading to the creation of enduring masterpieces that have left an indelible mark on classical music. His legacy remains vibrant, ensuring that his profound contributions are forever celebrated.


Originating in the mid-19th century, the Esterhazy torte created for Prince Paul Anton Esterhazy III stands as a delicious homage to the family's esteemed legacy, boasting layers of almond dacquoise and decadent pastry cream. Haydn's dedication of his delightful Piano Sonata in Eb Hob.XVI:25 to Nikolaus Esterhazy reflects the deep mutual respect and admiration between the composer and his patron.



The Melody




Haydn's Sonata Hob.XVI:25

Haydn's Sonata Hob.XVI:25, composed in 1773 and published by Kurzbock in 1774, marked a significant milestone as the composer's first work printed under his own supervision. Dedicated to his patron Prince Nicolaus Esterhazy, the sonata embodies the galant style, a hallmark of the mid-18th century characterized by its pleasant, undemanding nature. This style not only reflected the prince's taste but also catered to the growing commercial market, which embraced music accessible to all musicians. This period witnessed a democratization of music education, enabling the expanding middle class to access lessons previously reserved for the aristocracy.


One review of this 2 movement work appeared in 1778 by critic Reinhardt: "We can recommend this sonata to friends of the Klavier as very agreeable and an entertaining piece. The strong and original humor that prevails in this composer’s new quartets and quintets is not to be found here; rather (one finds) a very pleasant humor and an amusing wit."


The Composer and the Esterhazy family




Franz Joseph Haydn


The beginning years 1732-1760

Acclaimed as "The Father of the Symphony," Haydn was born in 1732. His musical journey commenced at the age of 8 when he relocated to Vienna to join the St. Stephan's church choir, where he delved into piano, violin, and the rudiments of music theory. Despite expulsion from the cathedral choir and school due to his changing voice at 17, Haydn persevered, undertaking various musical odd jobs while immersing himself in the works of Carl Phillip Emanuel Bach. It was through sheer determination that he crossed paths with the Italian composer Nicola Porpora, who not only provided him with employment as an accompanist for his voice students but also imparted invaluable composition lessons, thereby refining Haydn's musical craftsmanship.





Prince Paul Anton Esterhazy I


Vice-Kapellmeister 1761-1762

In 1761, Haydn's tenure with the Esterhazy family commenced when Prince Paul Anton Esterhazy appointed him as Vice-Kapellmeister. This role placed him in charge of the musical affairs at the Esterhazy Palace in Eisenstadt, with the aging Kapellmeister Gregor Werner primarily overseeing church music duties.







Prince Nikolaus Esterhazy I


Promotion to Kapellmeister 1762-1790

Following the death of Paul Anton Esterhazy in 1762, Nikolaus ascended to the position of prince and emerged as Haydn's primary patron. Nikolaus, not only a remarkable musician but also a skilled baryton virtuoso, forged a close bond with Haydn. Their relationship was cemented in 1766 when Haydn was promoted to the role of full Kapellmeister after the death of Werner. This elevation not only bestowed upon him the prestigious title but also granted him access to a full orchestra, providing the canvas on which he could freely express and develop his artistic vision. Under Nikolaus's patronage, Haydn flourished, creating a wealth of masterpieces that would shape the landscape of classical music for generations to come. Their collaboration marked a golden era in Haydn's career, characterized by innovation and creativity.





Prince Anton Esterhazy I


Dismissal and London 1790-1794

Following the death of Prince Nikolaus in 1790, his son Anton I faced economic challenges exacerbated by ongoing wars and fears sparked by the French Revolution. Consequently, Anton I disbanded the orchestra. However, out of reverence for Haydn and his invaluable contributions to the family, Anton allocated a modest sum to retain the services of the esteemed composer. This gesture of respect allowed Haydn to continue his musical endeavors, albeit on a smaller scale.


In response to these changes, Haydn seized the opportunity to embark on two significant journeys to London in the early 1790s. His concerts in the English capital garnered immense success, not only elevating his reputation but also significantly augmenting his wealth. During his time in London, Haydn had the privilege of associating with eminent composers such as Ludvík Dussek. Additionally, he acquired a Broadwood piano, which would profoundly influence his later piano compositions. Indeed, Haydn's experiences in London left an indelible mark on his musical legacy, particularly evident in his esteemed late piano sonatas, such as Hob. XVI:50-52, and his Variations in F minor. 





Prince Nikolaus Esterhazy II


Final years 1794-1809

After Anton I's passing, Haydn returned to Vienna in 1795, where Nikolaus II appointed him as Kapellmeister once again. Balancing his time between the Esterhazy palace and a residence in a Vienna suburb, Haydn continued his musical duties until 1803, when his health began to deteriorate. Despite his inability to compose, akin to his predecessor Gregor Werner, the Esterhazy family continued to support him financially, keeping him on salary.

After a life filled with rich musical achievements, Haydn peacefully passed away on May 31, 1809, at the age of 77. His legacy endures as a cornerstone of classical music, forever immortalizing his genius and contributions to the musical world.



The Bite




The Hungarian Esterhazy torte

It is an Austrian-Hungarian delicacy originating from the mid-19th century, was initially created for Paul Anton III of the prestigious Esterhazy family, son of Nikolaus II, Haydn’s last benefactor. Comprising five layers of almond Dacquoise generously filled with pastry cream, its unique spiderweb design on top enhances its appeal. During the communist era, dishes bearing noble names underwent a renaming process, with those associated with the Esterhazy family being rebranded under the name of the Russian poet Pushkin. However, following the downfall of the communist regime, these dishes reverted to their original names.


The Inspiration in Vienna




The Haydnhaus

After two prosperous trips to London, Haydn amassed significant wealth, enabling him to acquire a house in Windmuhl in 1797, a suburb of Vienna. He primarily resided there, except during the summer months when he stayed at Eisenstadt composing for the Esterhazy family, who retained him as Kapellmeister until his declining health forced him to cease composing after 1803.


Today, the Haydnhaus stands as a museum on the outskirts of Vienna. This quaint yet captivating museum showcases Haydn's legacy, featuring his personal pianoforte, manuscripts of his renowned works "The Creation" and "The Seasons," handwritten letters from the composer himself, and even a dedicated room to Brahms, commemorating the composer whose Vienna home no longer exists.



The Recipe and Components


The Recipe

Chocolate and praline mousseline cream

Egg yolks - 100 grams

Cornstarch - 20 grams

Milk - 210 grams 

Sugar - 50 grams

Butter - 75 grams

Vanilla pod - 1

Dark chocolate - 75 grams

Praline - 125 grams 


  • Heat milk with vanilla seeds and pod until it boils, then cover and let sit for 30 minutes.

  • Whisk egg yolks, cornstarch, and sugar.

  • Remove vanilla pod from milk, then bring it back to a boil.

  • Gradually add 75% of the hot milk to the egg mixture, whisking constantly.

  • Return the mixture to medium heat, whisking until thickened.

  • Transfer to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours.

  • Bring mixture and butter to room temperature.

  • Melt dark chocolate.

  • In a stand mixer with a paddle attachment, combine softened butter and pastry cream.

  • Gradually add melted chocolate and praline, mixing well.

  • Ice the cake with the prepared mixture.


The Components



Dacquoise

A dacquoise here refers to the baked element of almond meringue layer itself. In this Hungarian Esterhazy torte, it is used as the alternating layer with the chocolate and praline mousseline cream.




Mousseline Cream

Like diplomat cream (from my previous post), mousseline cream is a derivative of crème pâtissière. The main difference is the butter, because it's beaten for several minutes, the mixture takes on a lighter, more airy texture. It is popularly used in European style tortes and pastries.





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2 Comments


kimberlytealcarter
Apr 18

Another musical and confectionery masterpiece from a talented human being! I love the inclusion of photos from your recent trip to Vienna to bring a personal touch to this historical story. Thank you for sharing your talents with us!

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Edward Kowalski
Edward Kowalski
Apr 18

It isn't just the ingredients and preparation, it takes skill and dedication to create such a decadent masterpiece. I'm referring to not only the dessert, but also the impeccable music that Jacob has gifted for us and the history that so many of us are not aware. Thank you!

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